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Death of a provocateur: Legendary Italian photographer Oliviero Toscani dies aged 82

This text was initially printed in Italian

Throughout a 60-year profession, Oliviero Toscani labored for main world magazines and was famend for his vibrant, provocative portraits and promoting campaigns which addressed points such because the atmosphere, migration and racism.

Oliviero Toscani, the visionary Italian photographer famend for his provocative promoting campaigns and daring social commentary, has died aged 82.

“With immense sorrow we announce the information that in the present day, 13 January 2025, our beloved Oliviero has launched into his subsequent journey. We kindly ask for privateness and understanding for this second that we wish to face within the intimacy of the household. Kirsti Toscani with Rocco, Lola and Alì,” his household mentioned in an announcement.

The influential photographer, born in 1942, had been battling amyloidosis for 2 years, a uncommon illness that prompted him to lose 40 kilograms in just some months. Amyloidosis happens when irregular proteins produced by the physique are deposited in important organs as small fibres, inflicting harm over time.

Who was Oliviero Toscani?

Toscani started his profession as a younger promoting photographer, shortly changing into a number one determine within the trend business. His work featured in prestigious titles reminiscent of Vogue, Elle and Harper’s Bazaar.

Very early on in his life, he developed a love and fervour for pictures, impressed by his father, Fedele Toscani, a photojournalist for Corriere della Sera. After learning at Vittorio Veneto Excessive College in Milan, he graduated in pictures from the Zurich College of the Arts in 1965.

At simply 14 years of age, he printed his first {photograph} in the identical Milanese newspaper: a picture of Rachele Mussolini’s grief throughout her husband Benito Mussolini’s funeral in 1957, twelve years after his loss of life.

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Thought-about to be some of the modern and provocative promoting photographers of the twentieth century, Toscani established himself as some of the sought-after artists by main manufacturers, working with the likes of Valentino and Chanel. However he created his most modern and recognised work with the Italian firm Benetton.

Addressing points reminiscent of refugees, loss of life row inmates, Mafia murders and racism, Toscani’s partnership with Benetton produced a few of the most unfiltered and provocative campaigns in promoting historical past.

The collaboration with the model started in 1982, lasting till 2000, and resumed from 2018 to early 2020. Nevertheless, the connection ended abruptly following controversial remarks Toscani made concerning the Morandi Bridge collapse, which claimed 43 lives.

On the time of the catastrophe, the Benetton household held the bulk share within the firm answerable for managing the bridge.

Toscani’s most well-known promoting campaigns

Toscani’s first marketing campaign for Benetton, that includes the slogan “All of the Colours of the World,” launched the model’s message of integration. It received quite a few awards whereas stirring controversy, and later grew to become synonymous with the model’s new identify, United Colours of Benetton.

In 1991, Toscani launched Colours journal, adopted by the institution of Fabrica in 1994, a world centre for arts and communication analysis, whose headquarters have been designed by Japanese architect Tadao Andō.

Throughout this era, he produced a collection of monographic catalogues targeted on social points: “Corleone” (1997), portraits of younger folks in one of many Mafia’s historic centres in Sicily, “I girasoli” (1998), devoted to the lifetime of disabled kids, and “We, on loss of life row” (2000), highlighting the injustice of the loss of life penalty.

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In a profession spanning 60 years, Toscani labored everywhere in the world. His topics ranged from John Lennon and Andy Warhol to Muhammad Ali and Lou Reed, in addition to figures like Claudia Schiffer, Monica Bellucci, Federico Fellini and the rising tennis star Jannik Sinner.

In 2007, Toscani launched Razza Umana, a pictures and video venture for the United Nations, specializing in the completely different facets of human existence. It captured a large spectrum of bodily, social and cultural traits of humanity throughout greater than 100 Italian municipalities, in addition to in Israel, Palestine, Japan and Guatemala.

“I search for new faces, folks with enthusiasm of their eyes, I demand that they don’t have any make-up, magnificence is one thing else,” he mentioned on his eightieth birthday, celebrated in 2022 with an exhibition at Milan’s Palazzo Reale.

Portraits from the pandemic

Toscani’s obsession with faces continued throughout the COVID-19 pandemic. He invited folks to seize their very own isolation by self-portraits, publishing chosen photographs on La Repubblica’s web site.

In his article launching the initiative, Toscani requested, “What did we appear like on the time of the virus? Sooner or later, happily, we are going to ask ourselves. However who will reply? There are not any skilled photojournalists within the homes of our quarantine. We’re there.”

“You could have a historic duty! You’re your personal reporters!” mentioned Toscani. So for months daily the newspaper printed photographs of the customers chosen by Toscani himself: “Allow us to all take a self-portrait as recluses, as prisoners of ourselves.”

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